Saturday Bonnie and I hired what we thought would be a guide to take us to Bethlehem and then Jericho. What we got was a very nice and competent driver but not a guide. When we asked him questions he told us to look it up on the internet when we got back to the hotel. At least he was safe and only conned us out of a few shekels when he got us some figs.
We visited the holy Christian sites in Bethlehem and were fortunate to be at Shepard's Field at the same time as students from Bethel College, a Mennonite school. They were singing in the chapel and sounded professional. We also visited an acquaintance from my Rabbis for Human Rights trip in 2008, the family of Ghaida' R. Rishmawi where Puah, Yocheved and I stayed while visiting Bethlehem and Beit Sahour. It was a nice meeting; we had a snack and saw some of the interesting art work that her mother is doing. I will send a picture when I can.
After Bethlehem we traveled to Herodium, Herod's fortress. I know there was indication that Bar Kochba's rebellion ended there in 136 CE but when checked it out I could not find anything to verify that. If anyone has any additional information, leave a comment.
We then traveled south to Jericho, the oldest city in the world, whatever that means. Follow the link if you are interested. I am glad we got there but it was not a remarkable experience. There was a 6 Century CE synagogue mosaic that I wanted to see but it was in a locked building. It was locked because some Jews tried to go there to pray and the locals got angry. I could have gotten in if I went to the Department of Interior in Jericho and got a permit. Needless to say, I did not bother. But I wish I had.
We passed some refugee camps in the Jericho area but could not see much. They looked just like crowded, poor towns.
That's about it folks, not much to say. Getting tired again.
L'hitraot.
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Friday, January 7, 2011
Jordan and Back
Petra is Petra. The light and the stones defy description. (that took care of that). Our guide and driver were delightful and told us what we wanted to know and got us back to the border in good time. Crossing from Israel to Jordan and then back from Jordan was easy but then the questions started. I might have mentioned that we got no questions when we entered Israel at Ben Gurion Airport, not one question. Got our luggage and got out of the airport in no time at all. But here at Eilat we were grilled and grilled and grilled (3 times). First at the border which was more or less routine. But since we were flying back north we were grilled again by two different people at the Eilat Airport. I can tell you that if I wasn't nervous before the interrogation I was afterwards. Suddenly everyone looked like a terrorist, even Bonnie. Both airport personnel acted as if they could not understand why we were coming into Israel. Either we were transporting in toxic substances or where naive dupes of the enemy. Their level of anxiety was contagious unfortunately and I really regretted not taking the bus north. You all remember in the 50's in NJ: skip the bother and skip the fuss, take the Public Service bus. (maybe you don't, so trust me). Well, that was what I was thinking.
Today was an uneventful day. We are both tired and fighting some germ or other. We walked over the Ben Yehuda to buy father-son yamulka's for Emmett and Aidan and walked back to your new hotel for a nap. We have moved from the Guesthouse in the Old City to the YMCA on King David. The YMCA is a fine hotel. Of course after the previous night in the Venus Hotel in Petra, anything would look good. We think the Y has been refurbished recently. Nice bathroom, comfortable bed and most importantly, really nice staff. And they charge for laundry by the kilo not the piece and that made me very happy.
At 3 this afternoon we walked the Stations of the Cross with the Franciscans. There were 1000s of people there and it was a fascinating experience. I tried to get some pictures but I could not get a good vantage point.
Afterward we went to the American Colony Hotel for dinner. It was delightful. We came too early for the full meal in the dining room but we had good meal in good surrounding in their "cafe." American Colony Hotel History
Raining again like last week and even colder.
Tomorrow we are off to the territories, Bethlehem and Jericho with a Palestinian guide. Might even get a refugee camp in if it doesn't rain too hard. For a good time, call Judy.
Today was an uneventful day. We are both tired and fighting some germ or other. We walked over the Ben Yehuda to buy father-son yamulka's for Emmett and Aidan and walked back to your new hotel for a nap. We have moved from the Guesthouse in the Old City to the YMCA on King David. The YMCA is a fine hotel. Of course after the previous night in the Venus Hotel in Petra, anything would look good. We think the Y has been refurbished recently. Nice bathroom, comfortable bed and most importantly, really nice staff. And they charge for laundry by the kilo not the piece and that made me very happy.
At 3 this afternoon we walked the Stations of the Cross with the Franciscans. There were 1000s of people there and it was a fascinating experience. I tried to get some pictures but I could not get a good vantage point.
Afterward we went to the American Colony Hotel for dinner. It was delightful. We came too early for the full meal in the dining room but we had good meal in good surrounding in their "cafe." American Colony Hotel History
Raining again like last week and even colder.
Tomorrow we are off to the territories, Bethlehem and Jericho with a Palestinian guide. Might even get a refugee camp in if it doesn't rain too hard. For a good time, call Judy.
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
Across the Border in Jordan
We began our trip to Petra, Wadi Musa, Jordan taking the bus to Eilat. The ride down was uneventful and fast. Especially fast for me since I slept part of the time. We passed the elegant Dead Sea resorts and the salt mining businesses. Crossing the border was a fortunately uneventful but we had to wait almost an hour for the guide because the bus was so early.
Bonnie, I and the driver and the guide drove to Aqaba and sat by the water drinking tea and talking.
I asked the driver, Sofrin, and the guide, George about the Palestinian refugee camps in Jordan, just out of curiosity not even thinking that I might be stepping into something. George, whose family has lived in Jordan for many generations told me there were several large ones here but they are no longer tents, but real buildings. He named a few but said nothing else. As it turns out 60% of the Jordanian population is Palestinian. And as it turns out the driver was from a Palestinian family who left Haifa when war broke out in 1948. He was born in Jordan and sees himself as a Jordanian. He said his father talks about Haifa and the old home but it does not seem to be a controlling idea like some of the Palestinians we have met or read about. He said that in 1948 his family had a choice as to whether to keep his Palestinian papers or surrender them and become a Jordanian citizen. His father elected to become a Jordanian citizen. Sofrin's attitude was very pragmatic. "This was a war; we lost; get on with life."
I had a weird feeling talking about this with these people. It seemed like the natural progression in my conversations during the last few weeks. First we talked with a man on a a moshav on the Gaza border who deals with personal safety on a daily business, then we met with Palestinian Israelis who deal with prejudice and unequal delegation of resources within the State of Israel; then a Palestinian who lives in the occupied territories; and now a Palestinian who lives in Jordan. They are all connected.
Well, folks, never have me choose a hotel. I found the most basic hotel for the one night in Petra. It makes the Guesthouse in the Old City look like the Ritz.
L'hitraot
Bonnie, I and the driver and the guide drove to Aqaba and sat by the water drinking tea and talking.
I asked the driver, Sofrin, and the guide, George about the Palestinian refugee camps in Jordan, just out of curiosity not even thinking that I might be stepping into something. George, whose family has lived in Jordan for many generations told me there were several large ones here but they are no longer tents, but real buildings. He named a few but said nothing else. As it turns out 60% of the Jordanian population is Palestinian. And as it turns out the driver was from a Palestinian family who left Haifa when war broke out in 1948. He was born in Jordan and sees himself as a Jordanian. He said his father talks about Haifa and the old home but it does not seem to be a controlling idea like some of the Palestinians we have met or read about. He said that in 1948 his family had a choice as to whether to keep his Palestinian papers or surrender them and become a Jordanian citizen. His father elected to become a Jordanian citizen. Sofrin's attitude was very pragmatic. "This was a war; we lost; get on with life."
I had a weird feeling talking about this with these people. It seemed like the natural progression in my conversations during the last few weeks. First we talked with a man on a a moshav on the Gaza border who deals with personal safety on a daily business, then we met with Palestinian Israelis who deal with prejudice and unequal delegation of resources within the State of Israel; then a Palestinian who lives in the occupied territories; and now a Palestinian who lives in Jordan. They are all connected.
Well, folks, never have me choose a hotel. I found the most basic hotel for the one night in Petra. It makes the Guesthouse in the Old City look like the Ritz.
L'hitraot
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
After the Party's Over
This is my first post since you all left and I must say that Bonnie and I miss the friendship and stimulation of our 10 days together. But don't worry for a minute; we are persevering. On Sunday we met with a friend of a friend and went again to Machina Yehuda when it was not just before Shabbat; and then ate at Emek Refiam. Then we checked into the Christ Church Guesthouse just inside the Jaffa Gate. Rooms are clean and comfortable; bathroom is clean but not lovely; food is basic. The staff which are probably mostly volunteer lack personality. That says it all.
Tomorrow we head for Petra via Elat on the Egged bus, go over the border ourselves and will be met with a guide and driver set up by Da'at. We'll do the whirlwind tour of Aqaba, drive to Petra, sleep, wake up, do the ruins until about 2-3, drive to the border, go over, fly to Tel Aviv and then bus it back to Jerusalem. Believe it or not, I am looking forward to the long bus ride and being a captive audience. I can't go anyplace else and I can't do anything else.
Yesterday Bonnie did her maiden voyage driving in Israel for the first time. She did great. We were told that getting to the Dead Sea was "no problem, you can't miss it" and you really don't need a GPS. So me being me ( a little tight) took his word and I wrote down the very clear directions--"just follow this road to the end and turn right" and we were on our way. Things got a little strange when we found the separation barrier to our right and everyone looked Palestinian and we saw signs for Ramalla. So we did the first of many illegal U turns and got back to wherever and finally saw road signs for the Dead Sea.
It was quite an adventure and we had a great time. It was a day absent of political discourse until be passed many unauthorized Bedouin villages along the way. We were very proud of ourselves, knowing this fact.
Our first stop was Qumran where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. Of course I got a picture of "the" cave. The stop was interesting, not exciting but is was a place I have wanted to go to for years so it was worth the trip for me. We then drove down to Masada, waved and turned around finally stopping at Mineral Beach on the Dead Sea for a float, a mud, and a bath in hot sulfur waters. Unfortunately for my Facebook fetish, I did not have my camera and could not get a picture of us mud-ed up.
After the trip we had a drink in the lounge of the King David Hotel and then ate dinner at the YMCA across the street.
Today we met Renee and she walked us through the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and then Bonnie and I spent the day in the Old City. We climbed the tower of the Church of the Redeemer for a 360 degree view of the Old City including a close up the Dome of the Rock. We followed Renee's advice and did some souvenir shopping at a store owned by Palestinian Christians who live in the Old City. They even offered us Turkish coffee which I could drink. I have been forcing myself to drink coffee when offered even though I don't like strong coffee. I am getting used to it.
One last thing today--we did the Tower of David Citadel and Museum of Jerusalem which was wonderful. Gave an in depth history of Jerusalem from a Jewish perspective from the Canaanite period to the present day, using the Bible as it source for historical details. Oh well, we all have our myths.
You can see if you have following my writings that this part of the trip is more concrete and less emotionally and intellectually challenging. But we are having fun.
L'hitraot
Tomorrow we head for Petra via Elat on the Egged bus, go over the border ourselves and will be met with a guide and driver set up by Da'at. We'll do the whirlwind tour of Aqaba, drive to Petra, sleep, wake up, do the ruins until about 2-3, drive to the border, go over, fly to Tel Aviv and then bus it back to Jerusalem. Believe it or not, I am looking forward to the long bus ride and being a captive audience. I can't go anyplace else and I can't do anything else.
Yesterday Bonnie did her maiden voyage driving in Israel for the first time. She did great. We were told that getting to the Dead Sea was "no problem, you can't miss it" and you really don't need a GPS. So me being me ( a little tight) took his word and I wrote down the very clear directions--"just follow this road to the end and turn right" and we were on our way. Things got a little strange when we found the separation barrier to our right and everyone looked Palestinian and we saw signs for Ramalla. So we did the first of many illegal U turns and got back to wherever and finally saw road signs for the Dead Sea.
It was quite an adventure and we had a great time. It was a day absent of political discourse until be passed many unauthorized Bedouin villages along the way. We were very proud of ourselves, knowing this fact.
Our first stop was Qumran where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. Of course I got a picture of "the" cave. The stop was interesting, not exciting but is was a place I have wanted to go to for years so it was worth the trip for me. We then drove down to Masada, waved and turned around finally stopping at Mineral Beach on the Dead Sea for a float, a mud, and a bath in hot sulfur waters. Unfortunately for my Facebook fetish, I did not have my camera and could not get a picture of us mud-ed up.
After the trip we had a drink in the lounge of the King David Hotel and then ate dinner at the YMCA across the street.
Today we met Renee and she walked us through the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and then Bonnie and I spent the day in the Old City. We climbed the tower of the Church of the Redeemer for a 360 degree view of the Old City including a close up the Dome of the Rock. We followed Renee's advice and did some souvenir shopping at a store owned by Palestinian Christians who live in the Old City. They even offered us Turkish coffee which I could drink. I have been forcing myself to drink coffee when offered even though I don't like strong coffee. I am getting used to it.
One last thing today--we did the Tower of David Citadel and Museum of Jerusalem which was wonderful. Gave an in depth history of Jerusalem from a Jewish perspective from the Canaanite period to the present day, using the Bible as it source for historical details. Oh well, we all have our myths.
You can see if you have following my writings that this part of the trip is more concrete and less emotionally and intellectually challenging. But we are having fun.
L'hitraot
Saturday, January 1, 2011
The Last Supper
Bonnie and I are packing with the expectation of meeting a friend and going again to the Makchina Yehuda to shop and then get lunch. Our plans for the next couple of days are not firm but in process. Waiting for a call from Danielle of Da'at.
The Last Shabbat
Just a quick summary of our last day. Most of us walked along the top of the wall surrounding the old city of Jerusalem. It was interesting and fun. For a change I have no self searching indepth comments--just fun and interesting. We followed the morning with a trip to the Israel Museum where we saw the actual Dead Sea Scrolls from between 200 BCE to 68 CE and the Aleppo Codex, the oldest pieces of Torah we have from about 1000 CE. Really interesting for anyone who studied about the establish of the official Jewish canon like I have with my study group.
A final wonderful farewell dinner to the official CBST Israel group and off they went to the airport. Bonnie and I will be here for another 2 1/2 to 3 weeks and will keep you posted.
A final wonderful farewell dinner to the official CBST Israel group and off they went to the airport. Bonnie and I will be here for another 2 1/2 to 3 weeks and will keep you posted.
Behind the "Green Line"--Ramallah
We started off the formal tour with a visit to Arafat's grave and a look at his compound. Ironically right next to the compound was a new building. Mohamed likened it to the past and the future. The old Palestine wanted war to get the land; the new Palestine wants peace and just live. We don't have to be friends; we just have to live. If only the Israelis would cooperate. I am sure that Mohamed believes what he says and is the kind of person who could make a peace work. It was interesting to compare his words with those of the tour guide in Independence Hall in Tel Aviv. She also wants peace and seemed to be like the kind of person that would make it work too. Like him she too believes that her people want peace and if it were not for the other side, there would be peace. Ha, such is life. It's always the other guy.
We then met with business men intent on bringing business to Palestine. They told us about a new planned community just outside Ramallah. It was like stepping into the 23rd century. I had trouble wrapping my mind around the plan. Check out the link for Rawabi. The project is well underway. But there are several literal and figurative roadblocks for the project. The first and most important is the development of a decent road linking Rawabi with Ramallah so that trucks providing the raw materials for this new town of 60,000 inhabitants can be built. They have been working on it for over a year with promises from the Israeli government but nothing finalized. The issue is that the road will pass through Area C which is land under total Israeli control. I polled the group when we returned to the bus: yes or no, Israel will let the road be built. What do you think?
We returned to Jerusalem for lunch. After lunch we checked out the weekly protest at Sheikh Jarrah. It is an area where Arabs have been evicted to the street with settlers moving to their homes.
The attempts to colonize the Arab neighborhoods of Jerusalem are backed by the city mayor, Nir Barkat, and by the Israeli government. As we know Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu refused president Obama’s demand to halt construction in East Jerusalem until the city’s final statues is decided.
Among the protesters today were former Knesset speaker Avrum Burg, and author David Grossman. And my favorite blogger Bernard Avishai. I spoke with both him and Burg for a few minutes. I was totally excited: such a groupie. I recommend subscribing to Avishai's blog. But what kind of groupie am I? I didn't even take his picture.
The demonstration was small due to hard rain and ended early but for me it was a dream come true. I have been following home evictions and the protests. It was nice to see Jew and Palestinian working together to make change. I got a ride to synagogue after the protest with Noam and she talked to me about the history of the protest and how it has changed over the almost 2 years it is has been going on. The details escape me but what I understood again that in Israel nothing is as simple as it looks at first blush. Many groups support the demonstration but often they are also marginalized groups with their own agenda which might be in conflict with the Palestinians. It remains important that the Palestinians run the show since the evictions effect their lives directly. We can support but must remember, we are guests in their home.
As in all demonstrations there was a small counter demonstration, in this case, Orthodox Jews.
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